Every place I've ever lived has been designed for that "average American family," with lots of bedrooms, living room, dining room, family room, etc. The problem was that I was a single person, not an average family. I needed space, but for hobbies, not people. And because I'm over 6'2", bending over to use sinks designed for children was a constant frustration. Over the years, I collected a list of things I would change if I could have my dream house. As I approached retirement, I realized time was running out for that house; it was now or never.


Dreams are not always perfect, however. I could never afford my dream house, a spacious Southern California home overlooking the Pacific Ocean. But I could afford a modest ranch house, with a 20-mile drive to the beach. It was a very long way from perfect, but it had potential.


This blog documents the process of turning that small average house into something that matches my lifestyle. It will be as close to my dream house as I can make it. I'm doing all the work myself to stretch my resources. By not hiring contractors, I can afford high quality materials, and I'll know the job is always done right. The remodeling will be my primary avocation for a few years, even as I try to fit in my writing and other hobbies.


It promises to be an interesting journey, and a challenging one!

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Master Bathroom — Part 6


 Yes, here it is, finally!  (although yes, it’s a small post, but I wanted to get it off the table, as it were, because it might be some time before there’s more to show) 

When last we left the subject, the master bathroom shower had been lined with cement backerboard, and was waiting for the Kerdi waterproof membrane to go on.

The corners are the most vulnerable places where water can infiltrate into the wall (where planes intersect: two planes or three).  Where two planes intersect (two walls, or wall and floor, etc.), a band of waterproof membrane is applied, using a thin layer of mortar.  Then a sheet of the membrane goes on the wall (or floor), overlapping the corner bands.  In the three-plane corner, there is a pre-formed piece that is mortared in, overlapped by the bands and then the sheets.


So, after the walls were covered, the drain depression in the molded plastic foam shower pan was filled with mortar, then the black plastic ABS drain part was cemented to the underlying 2” ABS drain pipe, while pressing it into the mortar bed—a critical operation.  All good, fortunately.


The 2” hex mosaic floor tile then went down, using thin-set mortar.  The tile came in square-foot sheets, held together with a thin mesh.  There was yet another, smaller drain fitting that had to be installed at the same time.  A little tricky, and the small tiles had to be individually cut to fit properly around the 4” square stainless steel drain cover.


After letting the mortar cure for three days, I grouted the tile with a light platinum gray unsanded grout.  Ordinarily I would have preferred sanded grout for 1/8” spacing between tiles, but the gap between some of the tiles ended up being a little less.  Sanded grout is recommended for gaps 1/8” and larger; unsanded grout is used for 1/8” and smaller gaps.  I tend to leave 1/8” gaps, where either type should work.  (The sand makes the grout stronger; the unsanded is more easily pressed into narrow gaps.)


The floor in the rest of the bathroom will get the same tile and grout color.  I expect to alternate between putting tile on the shower walls, and tile on the bathroom floor.  Probably not logical, but the change is nice.  



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