Every place I've ever lived has been designed for that "average American family," with lots of bedrooms, living room, dining room, family room, etc. The problem was that I was a single person, not an average family. I needed space, but for hobbies, not people. And because I'm over 6'2", bending over to use sinks designed for children was a constant frustration. Over the years, I collected a list of things I would change if I could have my dream house. As I approached retirement, I realized time was running out for that house; it was now or never.


Dreams are not always perfect, however. I could never afford my dream house, a spacious Southern California home overlooking the Pacific Ocean. But I could afford a modest ranch house, with a 20-mile drive to the beach. It was a very long way from perfect, but it had potential.


This blog documents the process of turning that small average house into something that matches my lifestyle. It will be as close to my dream house as I can make it. I'm doing all the work myself to stretch my resources. By not hiring contractors, I can afford high quality materials, and I'll know the job is always done right. The remodeling will be my primary avocation for a few years, even as I try to fit in my writing and other hobbies.


It promises to be an interesting journey, and a challenging one!

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

New Laundry/Mechanicals Room - Part 4

I had my second cataract surgery a week ago, so another week before I'm cleared to start doing heavy demolition (i.e. trenching through concrete).  I'm in no hurry.  I did manage to get some of that work done before the latest surgery, to wit, running a new drain line from the future location of the guest bathroom vanity sink, to an  existing vertical drain pipe (that had been used for the old master bathroom vanity).  Confused?

Before I did that, in an effort to contain the thick clouds of concrete dust produced by the diamond bladed circular saw slicing through concrete, I built the wall that closes off the opening between the home theater and the new laundry room.  Photos taken 1) from the home theater, and 2) from inside the laundry room.



Then I put plastic sheet over this new stud wall and started cutting through the concrete.  The slab was only about 3" thick where the new drain pipe needed to go, but it quickly got thicker, more than a foot thick, as I worked my way toward the foundation wall of the house proper.  I discovered that beyond that (what was originally the garage), there was no foundation wall under that slab edge, and the slab was only about 4" thick.  Good news for when I get around to trenching for the new washing machine drain line.




Once that new trench was filled with concrete, I could build the part of the laundry room wall that separates it from the new guest bathroom.  The new wall is flush with the back wall of the laundry room, and provides more area for the guest bathroom, needed for a new vanity (and some storage).  That new wall segment will also house a new electrical subpanel, replacing the old, physically smaller subpanel box that was in the old, smaller laundry room (it's about five feet to the left of where the new panel is).  You can see the new panel in this photo, just sitting in place for the photo.  The old smaller panel, besides being cramped, is located behind where the washer and dryer will be going, which is a no-no.  The area in front of electrical panels has to be open.


You might also notice that the door leading to my only current bathroom is now behind a stud wall.  That door, and the whole wall it is in, will be removed (soon), and a new pocket door will be installed between that bathroom and the home theater (which will also serve as the guest bedroom).  Until that happens, access to the bathroom will entail sidling between the studs.  Good thing I'm thin!


Monday, September 8, 2014

My New Oven is Operational!

After more than a year without a real oven, my wait is over.  After making the electrical connections, I put my new oven to the test.  No more store-bought bread, no more frozen pizza!



I'm now recovering from cataract surgery on my right eye, and expect to have the same procedure done on my left eye within a few weeks (all that time out on the water in the bright sun).  No heavy lifting allowed, so breaking through concrete to run new drain pipes will have to wait a little while longer.

Monday, September 1, 2014

The New Kitchen - Part Three

My brother just came for his short visit today; I had three lifting tasks ready for him: 1) getting a new heavy jointer (big power tool) out of the back of my car, 2) lifting the new large and heavy living room window into the opening I had prepared just for this occasion, and 3) helping to lift my oven into the new kitchen cabinets I just built.  The making of the kitchen cabinets had moved to the top of the priority list after I learned he was coming (three weeks notice).

I had been doing conceptual design work for quite some time, but I still needed to decide on some specific dimensions and put them to paper.  I prefer to build cabinet bases separately, make them all nice and level, so that after that it is just a matter of plopping the cabinet cases on top of the base.  I am making the bases out of 2 x 8s, which makes the bases nominally 7.5" tall, but during leveling on the un-level concrete floor, I removed up to a half-inch of that height.

Stock bases are typically recessed 3" from the cabinet faces, and so are mine.  While my bases are about 7" high, stock kitchen cabinets generally have a much lower toe-kick (about 3"), but I've found that my toes tend to kick the bottom edge of stock cabinets, so I wanted more height for my big feet.  Stock cabinet bases are also made from 3/4" stock, but I wanted mine to be sturdier.  The base was secured to the studs in the wall, and also screwed down to the concrete floor.  Overkill?  Maybe, but we have earthquakes out here.


I was making two cabinets — one for the wall oven and the other adjacent one would house the microwave.  Also lots of drawers beneath the ovens, and above the ovens, slide-out shelves (like sideways drawers).  These are big cabinets, 28" deep, and tall.  I put the car out of the garage to make space for cutting out the pieces and assembly.  The cases are made from 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood, with 1/2" plywood backs.  All the pieces are glued together with tongue and groove joints, biscuits, and plywood lugs supporting structural shelves.


White plastic laminate was put on the side that will show; the plastic laminate also went on the microwave oven shelf.  When the cases were finished, I placed them on the base and lined everything up, then screwed them together, to the base, and to the studs in the wall and to the overhead soffit.  Not going anywhere.


With the cases securely in place, I applied 3/4" solid maple facing to the plywood edges, and applied three coats of satin polyurethane to the maple.  I finished connecting the electrical receptacle in the microwave cubby, and drilled a hole for the cable from the oven to the compartment above, where the junction box will go (connects to the cable from the breaker box — 30 amp, 240 volt circuit).


I still have to build all the drawers for the two cabinets (and lots more cabinets for the rest of the kitchen), but once I make the electrical connections, I will finally be able to bake again!

Monday, August 18, 2014

New Laundry/Mechanicals Room - Part 3

At the end of Part 2 of the laundry room saga, we were left with an unwanted wall full of electrical cables, gas lines, drain pipes, water supply lines, and old studs.


Bit by bit, I began removing these things.  The gas pipe was relatively easy (not my first time, which helped).  Turn off the main gas (outside at the meter), bleed the pressure off at the gas dryer valve, saw off the branch pipe near where it goes into the main line, then use a pipe wrench to unscrew it from the coupler, then install a plug.  The water heater pilot light then needed relighting.

The big challenge was removing the washing machine drain pipe, which ran down into the concrete.  It turns out the people who built the house poured the footings, foundation wall, and slab all at once (called a monolithic pour or slab).  Doing it that way saves a lot of labor costs (associated with building and removing forms, and pouring concrete in three stages), but it uses a lot more concrete.  Most of this extra concrete ends up around the periphery of the slab (the foundation walls are a lot thicker than they need to be in order to be as wide as the footings are required to be, and because there are no forms on the inside of the foundation walls—just dirt, and the dirt tends to slump and need digging out, and the resulting bigger hole filled with yet more concrete).

So when I starting hammering down through the concrete, I was dismayed not to find the 4" slab thickness I encountered in the bathroom (away from the outside of the slab).



After digging down a foot through solid concrete (and still not finding dirt), I gave up, cut off the drain pipe below the surface, and covered the hole with a piece of plywood and a scrap of carpet.  With the drain/vent pipe gone, I could wheel the washing machine out (built a new dolly for that), and relocate my temporary sink to the new kitchen.  Of course they would be useless without a water supply, so I ran some new temporary pex water lines.

I had capped and removed the old 3/4" copper pipes running to that part of the house, so I removed those SharkBite caps, and using push-on SharkBite reducing couplers, hooked up the 1/2" pex to the 3/4" copper.  No soldering required.


Here is the temporary sink in its new location, with color-coded pex hot and cold water lines running down from the attic.  The sink drains to the new drain pipe I had already run for the permanent kitchen sink.  That drain pipe uses an air-admittance valve (the white thing at the top of the vertical black ABS drain) in place of a vent pipe running up through the roof.  Not much water running through the sink drain.  (At the other end of the drain line, there is a vent pipe that runs through the roof; it's just not real close to the sink.  The air-admittance valve supplements that other vent stack.)


With the sink and washing machine out of the new laundry room, I had more room to work on getting rid of the rest of the stuff in the wall:


Most of the copper supply lines could simply be cut off and capped in the attic, but there was one cold water line that ran through this mess and fed the toilet in the adjacent bathroom, and also an outside faucet.  There was an unused 1/2" copper cold water line in the attic; I connected a temporary 1/2" pex line to that (using a SharkBite coupler) which I ran down to the copper stub from the toilet and outside faucet.  I made the connection with a plastic elbow (using Uponor ProPex expander system) and another SharkBite coupling.  No soldering, very fast.


This morning I installed a reinforcing beam in the attic and removed the rest of the wall.  So now I can continue unfettered hammering through the concrete slab.  New drains for the guest bathroom sink, the washing machine, and two floor drains for the water softener backflush, and condensate from the future high-efficiency water heater and heat pump air handler.


Only that's not what I'm going to do next.  My brother is visiting from the east coast in a couple of weeks.  I'm going to prep for the new living room window, too big for me to lift by myself.  I'm also going to try to build the floor-to-ceiling kitchen cabinets for the wall oven and adjacent microwave.  The wall oven is too heavy/bulky for me to install by myself, so hopefully those cabinets will be finished by the time my brother arrives.  The side benefit for doing that is that I will be able to start baking again (bread and pizza from scratch!).

Will it happen?  Stay tuned.

Master Bathroom - Part Two

Work around here always seems to get shifted from one project to another on a somewhat arbitrary basis, but there is some logic to the progression (if not always apparent).

After removing the pocket door from the old laundry room, I installed it between the new master bedroom and master bathroom to get it out of the way (still needs some blocking on top—everything in its time):


With our unusually hot weather, work in the attic (preliminary to removing the unwanted wall in the middle of the new laundry/mechanicals room) has only been possible for a short time in the morning before the intense sun turned the attic into an oven.  So I started framing the shower in the new master bathroom during the rest of the day.


You may notice there is a washing machine sitting in the middle of the shower, and temporary pex hot and cold water supply lines dangling down from the ceiling.  Hmmm.  What you can't see is that the washer is sitting on a dolly, used to wheel the machine from the old laundry room to this new temporary location (where it is making good use of the newly installed shower drain pipe).

I've also been doing detailed design work on the bathroom, which takes time, and more time.  You'll see the results in a future post.  For now, work is being shifted to other projects ;-)

Friday, August 1, 2014

New Laundry/Mechanicals Room - Part 2

My foster dog Jenny had thirteen pups, starting at around 7 p.m., with the last little one coming out at 2:05 a.m.  Interesting experience, delivering babies; mom had the hardest time of it, to be sure, but she did not do all the work.  Two of the pups were stillborn, which left eleven for the new mom to nurse.  Too many, as it turned out.

Jenny became more secure in my house (less scared), and after a few days started acting more like a normal dog when she was out in back on her breaks (away from the voracious pups).  She was skin and bones when she came from the shelter, and despite eating four times a day, still seemed to be losing weight.  I separated out the four largest pups for bottle feeding, which they never really embraced, and tried getting them all to take the bottle, but it was not enough.  After about five days of nursing, Jenny's appetite dropped off, and later she stopped producing milk.

I urged my rescue contact to find someone to take some of the pups for hand-raising, but nothing came of that.  She was focused on the pups, and not on the mom; I was the reverse.  Finally the rescue told me to take mom and pups to the vet to get checked out.  Jenny was really stressed by that—shaking scared.  I was also informed that someone from another rescue with more "experience" raising pups would take over their care.

After that, it took three days to get any information from my rescue contact about Jenny's fate, and was simply told she was doing well.  Not sure there wasn't more I was not hearing, but in any case, I have been motivated to put my thoughts toward the remodel.  I told the rescue I would like to adopt Jenny; we'll see what happens.


Back to the laundry/mechanicals room.  The new entrance would be a four foot wide opening to the hall—no door.  As I explained in the last post, the wall in the middle of the new room was load bearing, and needed some extra support above the ceiling before the wall could be removed.  The first step was to remove the old pocket door and wall that separated the laundry from the hallway (not load bearing).  Thus:


Framing the new wall was relatively straightforward, although the recycled header/beam I was using over the opening was twisted and needed a few passes through a thickness planer to make it work.  The photos were taken from the hall and from inside the old cramped laundry room.



The next step was to put in the supporting beams in the attic before removing the load-bearing wall, but 1) the attic was too hot for that right now, and 2) I discovered the two black ABS vent pipes in the wall run up right where the new beams will go, so I needed to either move or remove those vent pipes (which service the washing machine and sink drains).  In the meantime I began removing more drywall.  Which brings us to this:


Everything inside that stud wall has to go: ABS drain and vent pipes, copper hot and cold water supply lines, electrical wiring, and a steel natural gas pipe (which was there to feed a gas clothes dryer—mine is electric).

That sink (covered with black plastic sheet) is the only one in the house now; I need that every day.  The washing machine also needs to remain operational.  I first considered moving them around in the room, but new drain pipes mean tearing up concrete (Oh, no!  Not that again!); I need open space!

So now the plan is to relocate the sink to the new kitchen, to make use of the newly installed kitchen sink drain pipe (as a temporary measure), and to relocate the washing machine to the new master bathroom, using the newly installed shower drain pipe.  Today I ordered a bunch of pex (cross-linked polyethylene) water supply line plumbing stuff, so I can rig up some temporary hot and cold water lines, which actually should be fairly simple.  Once I man-handle the sink cabinet and washing machine to their new locations, I can proceed with disappearing that unwanted wall.

Until next time . . .

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

New Laundry/Mechanicals Room - Part 1

So the idea for the next step was to install the PEX water supply lines for the kitchen and master bathroom (not necessarily connecting them to the water supply, but getting them into the walls), but the attic access hatch and furnace return vent were in the way.  As I studied the construction sequence more, the more it seemed I needed to work on the new laundry/mechanicals room before starting on the water supply lines.

My original idea for enlarging the existing cramped laundry room was just that—to increase the floor space by taking over part of the bathroom/closet from the old master bedroom.  There would then be room for a folding counter, storage space, and a cleaning closet (mops, buckets, vacuum cleaners, etc.).

Here's the original rough floor-plan for that area, and photos of the existing laundry room and the space I intended to annex.




I already ripped out that very low double-sink vanity, and replaced it with the kitchen sink that will be going into my pottery studio.



Later I decided I needed a modern high-efficiency hot water heater, and I didn't want it in the garage, where the old one was.  I was planning to expand the master bedroom, and the old water heater was in the way.  I also wanted a water softener; there was a strange walled-in void space across the hall from the laundry room where that would fit.  But then the water softener needed a drain, and I didn't look forward to trenching across the hall to install that.

The ancient central A/C unit tripped a breaker a few months ago on a very hot day, and the old uninsulated gas furnace unit that circulated the cool air was in the hot, hot attic.



So I decided to replace both the old A/C unit and the gas furnace with an electric heat pump, and put the air handler (heat exchanger and blower) unit in the new laundry room.  That air handler would also need a drain (for condensate), as would the new water heater (also for condensate).  So that meant three drains (plus one for the washer).

If I moved the water softener into the laundry room, it could share a drain with the air handler, and the void space across the hall could be added to my master bedroom.  Would it all fit?  I needed to make a scale drawing.


 The existing wall that runs through the new space will have to be removed, but since it is a load-bearing wall (separating the main house from the lower-roofed garage structure), I will have to install a new beam in the attic to carry the not-terribly-great load.  The double-beam will go at the bottom of this wall in the attic, fitted on both the house side as well as the garage side:



Access to the existing laundry room is via a pocket door, which will now be in the wrong place.  I am going to take the pocket door and install it between the new master bedroom and new master bathroom.  As you can see in the drawing above, access to the new larger laundry room will be a simple 4-foot wide opening in the wall (no door).  But since the new support beam for the space (going in the attic) will end over the access opening, I will install a substantial header/beam over the 4-foot entry opening; one end of the support beam in the attic will rest on that.  Yesterday I started reframing this wall, shared with the hallway.



So, back to the scale drawing:  The gas water heater will go next to the washer; its PVC air intake and PVC exhaust gas outflow pipes will go directly up through the relatively low garage roof.  The air handler (17.5" wide) and water softener (14.5" wide) will go on the opposite side and share a drain.  There will still be room for a 44" wide, 27" deep counter.  The currently open space behind the counter, now open to the home theater, will of course be filled in.

I plan to proceed with the structural modifications for the laundry/mechanicals room, so that when that is done I could start putting in the water supply lines.  But I may end up finishing this room next, so that the house's services infrastructure can be properly finished before work on the kitchen and master bathroom proceeds.  That would be how it's done if someone was building a new house, but not usually how I end up working.

In any case, work will be drastically slowing, as I just volunteered to foster a very pregnant white German Shepherd who was dumped at a shelter.  The rescue organization picked up the scared girl yesterday, took her to a vet, and then brought her here.  The vet x-rayed her and thought she was carrying 12 to 13 puppies (yikes!), and that she would go into labor last night or today.  No pups last night, or so far today.  But taking care of all of them will be my new preoccupation.